Friday, 23 March 2012

A week with Al


In preparation for our sea voyage back home, we decide to sign up for a few courses while back in NZ.  Gary had decided to sit his RYA Commercial Skippers ticket that enables him to skipper boats up to 200 tonne.  He already had all the prerequisites, so all he needed was a few tutorials before sitting the exam.  We also decided to both sit the Advanced Sea Survival course and First Aid (both being a recap for Gary, but first time for me).

With a bunch of coincidences and a bit of luck, we found ourselves under the care of Al Gwyer, tutor extraordinaire.  While technically it was Gary sitting his ticket, I was required to be his crew for the test and therefore needed to attend the training.  We managed to steal Mum and Dad Bonser’s boat for the training – thanks!

From the moment I stepped on the boat with Al, I knew we were in good hands.  Cool, calm and confident, Al put Gary through the paces.  Al could truly sell himself as a marriage counsellor too.  We didn’t think we needed a counsellor only 4 days into our marriage, but boy was Al a godsend. 

Generally, if you don’t want a divorce, don’t go sailing with your spouse.  Tempers are easily set alight in the stressful situations that go hand in hand with sailing.  Husbands, although it is desperately difficult to admit it, often have more sailing experience than their female counterparts and are therefore in a position to direct, lecture and instruct their wives.  Being told what to do from a man is difficult enough for a feminist like me, but being told from my husband is like shaving with a cheese grater. 

That’s where Al comes in.  For his ticket, Gary was required to tell his crew where to be and what to do (my job being to stop myself from telling him where to go!) while completing complex manoeuvres.  Gary needed to demonstrate his ability to manage people as well as the boat.  If Gary would give me instructions that weren’t clear enough, Al would step right in on my behalf.  “What do you mean by that Gary?”, “You need to give her more warning Gary” and “you can’t really expect her to do that Gary” says Al my saviour!  Gary couldn’t raise his voice at me without a stern look from Al to put him in his place.  Gary even stopped giving me a frustrated sigh when I wasn’t doing something fast enough – all thanks to Al.

Gary came away with his Skipper’s ticket, but I reckon he also came away with a much better understanding of how to communicate with women.

Next up with Al was our Sea Survival.  Day one was theory.  Al told us the dos and don’ts from “don’t get off the boat unless it’s flooded or on fire” to “never tie the rope sent down from the helicopter to the boat”.  All the lessons were drummed into our memory like a jackhammer by the horrific footage of rescues.  I am still haunted by the film of a family being rescued, who really should have just battened down the hatches – their boat was just fine.  The helicopter arrived and assessed the situation as too dangerous to take the people off the boat, but the family wasn’t communicating with the helicopter. The mother jumped into the water with a four month old baby.  Clutching the baby to her chest, the baby was underwater and being drowned.  It is a miracle the baby survived thanks to the bravery of the helicopter crew and pure fluke.  Another take away from the course was when you ask for rescue you are risking the lives of your rescuers, so it better be your only option.

In the afternoon we sat our first aid course with Scott.  Direct and to the point Scott taught us the basics of first aid for the injuries we might encounter on the sea (not just “coughs, colds and sore holes” as he put it!).  The talk of blood and guts was informative but left me a bit queasy, especially after Gary asked what you should do if you lose your hand!  Scott, unalarmed, gave us the how to and made it easy to remember.

Day two of sea survival was the practical.  Bright and early we arrived at the Mt Albert wave pool.  We learnt about the different types of life jackets, what to do if they are faulty, the realities of surviving without a life jacket, how to swim as a crew and keep warm, as well as real life experience in a life raft.   All the time while you are floundering in the waves attempting to blow up your crappy life jacket manually, our good friend Al is pouring water at your face with a high pressure hose.  We practiced righting the life raft, both being inside while it flips, and trying to right it.  In full wet weather gear, saturated, and your life jacket tight at your neck, being rolled in the life raft is not much fun.  I swear that morning was the closest I have ever been to drowning.  Although the practical could never be described as a good time (well, despite going down the water slide at the end) it was one of the best things I’ve done for my boat safety.  Before you have been there, you just can’t comprehend how difficult it is to survive in the water, how shit a life raft is, and what a miracle it is to survive if you ever have to get into one. Despite yelling at Al what a bastard he was while he sprayed water in my face, it really did make the practical much more real, and made me take so much more away from the course.

After our week (well really two) with Al, I felt much more prepared for our voyage, and am so thankful to have done it with Al.



Saturday, 11 February 2012

A day out on Virgin Gorda

With only a few days left before saying toodle pip to Toodles, and head back to NZ to tie the knot, we decided to make one last trip back up to North Sound on Virgin Gorda.

We had heard rumor that cars could be rented from Leverick Bay in the Sound, so we made the 10 minute trip in the dinghy to find out.  This time we got a much better car, finally one that is "fit for purpose".  In our new Suzuki Vitara we explored the Island.  The roads here are really steep, but here (as opposed to Tortola), they really know how to build roads.  Many less pot holes!



First stop, the Baths!

The Baths are made up of large granite boulders that once were encased in lave. Over time, a long long time, the lava has been eroded away and 'the Baths' are the result.  They are fantastic and a must see if you are near this part of the world.


 
The caves to get through the Baths make for an entertaining treck.  Up and down stairs, through crevices, up boulder faces using a rope, all thrown in with a bit of crawling.  






Devils Bay, at the end of the trek is beautiful.  Shame about the cruise ship tourists, which are not hard to spot complete with their embarrassing fluro life jackets.  Come on guys, you aren't even out of your depth! 

spot the tourist



We had lunch just above the Baths, with a pretty good view.  





Next stop was the old copper mine.  This time Gary gave me the camera and I attempted to get arty, not too much luck though.






On our way back to the boat, we stumbled upon our favorite beach yet.  I'm not going to name it as we would like to keep it a bit of a secret so that it remains so idyllic and empty!  If you come to visit us, and we are around Virgin Gorda, we will take you there. 







Tomorrow will be a less exciting day.  Washing and cleaning before we head back to NZ.

 

Wednesday, 8 February 2012

Social Butterflies: Peter, Cooper and Trellis Bay


Equipped with our clean laundry, we headed to Peter Island.  We had spent New Year here with my Dad in 2008, so it has a lot of memories.  On Peter Island the shore is a graveyard of coral bones. 

Coral Bones

Cool starfish


Strange red ants
The man with the cats was still there.  I had secretly hoped I could steal a kitten without Gary noticing, but unfortunately there are now fewer cats than I had once remembered, and no kittens.  So we are still sans pets.

We wandered to the Peter Island Resort, which felt a bit too exclusive so we only invaded for a short while.  We came across another massive Iguana and my squeals attracted the attention of one of the grounds keepers.  He showed us where the massive Iguanas sunbathe so we went to investigate.  




The next day we headed to Salt Island and snorkeled on the wreck of the Rhone.  No dive gear needed, the clarity of the water means the wreck can be seen in detail from the surface.






We lunched at Cooper Island.  Gary ordered a Painkiller cocktail, which was so delicious we agreed we would come back that night for happy hour: two for one!  At 4pm, at the sound of the bell, we headed ashore.  

Toodles


Cooper Island Beach Club
I was the picture of contentment at sunset with my happy hour half price Painkiller in hand.   To combat the strength of the Painkillers, we decided to have dinner at the bar.  Well fed and recovered from our Painkillers, we chatted with the couple beside us.  Who knew that I could stumble upon a retired Irish Judge on Cooper Island!  We had such a wonderful time chatting, we couldn’t get the smile off our face even the next morning.  Once our new friends had left for the night, we began to notice the attention of the bar was on the large television screen.  It was apparently the Super Bowl that night and the bar was filled with team supporters.  We were kindly adopted by a group of Giants fans.  We joined them in their Mexican wave and tried to cheer at the right moment, their excitement infectious.  We cheered especially loud when the Giant’s took the game in the last few minutes.  It was then that it became suddenly apparent that the rest of the bar patrons were in fact Patriot supporters.  GO GIANTS!

Our next stop was Trellis Bay where we met another great couple, who sought us out after noticing our NZ flag.  With the better half of the couple being Australian, we had a lot in common with the young sailors.  We invited them for drinks and nibbles on Toodles, our first guests aboard.  They ooh-ed and ahh-ed at all the right times - thanks guys!  They also taught us to put oil down your toilets so they run like a dream, and educated us on English music. 

As I sit here this evening, with Paul Weller cranked up loud, I am truly thankful for having met such wonderful people on our trip. 

Friday, 3 February 2012

Laundry


After our exploits in the USVI we have headed back to the BVI, which is now beginning to feel somewhat like home.  We spent a night in Nanny Cay marina, to restock and refuel...and to do laundry.

I have been attempting to wash our own clothes with two buckets, liquid soap, a load of elbow grease and a tonne of enthusiasm.  Once every few days I furiously scrub our t-shirts and shorts with my bare hands, rubbing my knuckles against each other to achieve maximum soap penetration and stain removal. Unfortunately, this only makes my hands blistered and the clothes only barely cleaner. 

I have been drooling over the magic counter top camp washers that I see on the internet.  They resemble a barrel on a tripod with a handle that you turn to spin the barrel, and presumably your washing.  The thought of having actual clean laundry makes my toes tingle.  If Gary got me one of these contraptions for my birthday, I’m sure my resultant reaction would be the opposite of the time he bought me an iron for my birthday (still unused, in box at the back of our storage unit).  He is also unlikely to develop the same bruising that resulted from the iron incident either. However, alas such inventions are impossible to acquire here in the Caribbean. 

While wandering to the shop at Nanny Cay I was distracted by a sign that seemed to be glowing like an angel sent from God. It read “LAUNDROMAT”.

At 4pm on the dot, when it opens for private use, armed with a handful of quarters I entered the sweet smelling Laundromat.  With the help of the kind assistant I managed to put on my first load... the sheets.  Like a child on Christmas morning excitement ran through me.  I watched the washing machine progress through all its stages, the words Wash, Rinse, Spin heightened my excitement.  The beeping of the washer signaling its completion was better than any beep I have ever heard.  But the next stage is even better...the dryer.  Now, this wasn’t any ordinary dryer.  This was an industrial dryer, complete with furnace at the back.  Again, with further kind assistance, I started the dryer.  As the minutes unfolded, the sweet smell of warm clean laundry wafted through the air.  When the cycle ended I gathered the sheets in my arms, held them against my cheek and took a deep breath of contentment.  Clean washing.

The thrill was only slightly lessened by the fact that I had another 4 loads ahead of me.  After the 3 hours of washing I walked to the boat in a daze, my urge satiated.

Wednesday, 1 February 2012

Moorings, the Moment Killer


I have witnessed this anomaly a number of times now, and feel I have managed to correctly identify the cause and consequence, and thus have correctly categorised the anomaly as “Moorings, the Moment Killer”.

Picture this.  You have spent the morning with your man exploring a new island, walked the markets and seen the sights, hand in hand.  Add some stereotypical laughing and gazing into each other’s eyes over a mango smoothie: one smoothie, two straws.  You have returned to your boat and sailed out to another nearby island.  The sun has warmed your back, your hair waving in the breeze.  You glance at your bronzed man at the helm, confidently steering the boat, flashing you a smile with his white teeth, and wait...did he just flex his biceps?  You reach your anchorage.  The water is flat calm and topaz blue, palm trees lean over an idyllic white beach that you will have all to yourself.  You are sent to the bow to pick up the mooring.  Boat hook in hand, you rest the base on the deck and hold it like a tribal staff.  Your own bronzed body can be seen in all its glory, the wave reflections and wind giving you a somewhat model-like appearance. 

You are approaching the mooring, 10 metres to go.  “10” you yell to you man at the helm, “What?” he yells back “I said, 10 metres to go” you answer, frustrated as it is more like 5 now, and having to turn your head has made you lose sight of the mooring.  “2 metres” you yell.  “Where is it??” he yells back with an irritated tone.  An angry fire has been light in you belly.  Where the F* do you think it is? You mumble to yourself.  “There!” you point right in front of you, well now just about under you since you have had to answer.  You go in with your boat hook, but the boat is going too quickly.  The mooring rope, kept at the surface by a floater, is now flying fast down the side of the boat out of your reach. “Agh!” your man yells, apparently not at you, as he will tell you later.  “I’ll just have to do it again!” he remarks snidely.  The boat swings a tight circle, again too fast.  When the mooring reaches the bow it is now two metres away from the boat, completely out of reach, even after extending the boat hook to its limits.  “You have got to be kidding!” you man mouths off from the helm.  You are fuming.  Your teeth grind against each other involuntarily.  “How am I supposed to get it when you are nowhere near it!” you refute.  “Just WATCH THE MOORING!” he yells, now approaching the mooring for the third time.  He has just about run over it, he is still going too fast.  You manage to contort yourself around the anchor and lean so far out of the boat that you feel you are about to fall, you strain the muscle along your side, but Yes! YES! You have caught the line! 

You quickly pull the line up and place the boat hook down on the deck.  You hook the eye of the mooring line over the cleat while you try and sort out the ropes to make a bridle.  “QUICKLY!” your man yells, suddenly up at the bow with you.  You are stressed, what else does he want me to do quickly?? You are paralysed by his urgent tone. “GUH!!!” he breathes out loudly and snatches the rope from your hands, then feeding the rope through the eye and cleating it.  “You were just standing there doing nothing!” he accuses you....

And so you see, the moment was killed.

Thankfully, Gary and I have not been personally involved in any such fight, but we have been honoured to be the watching boat next door on so many occasions that it is impossible to count.  Although desperately entertaining, it plays out like a Mr Bean episode, where you know how it is going to go wrong and it is difficult to watch it unfold.  

As a side note, if you are the couple who rented the Virgin Traders, who missed the mooring entirely, and needed the adjacent boat to pick it up for you after you missed for the tenth time, you should be ashamed of yourselves. It is called an extending boat hook because it 'extends.' 

While Moorings may be the “Moment Killer”, I believe I have also witnessed an anomaly that could be categorised as the “Home wrecker”, but I will fill you in on this a little further down the track.  At times I have considered that perhaps Gary and I should have only embarked on this adventure after we have tied the knot!  At least our episodes have not been as entertaining as the couple described above.

Saturday, 28 January 2012

Another day, another blog (a Gary Post) (delayed)


We have been quite slack lately with our blogs.  Maybe the Caribbean way is starting to sink in, or maybe, the lack of internet, I am not sure.  We are on island time, we have checked out.

We have been anchored in Francis Bay on St John (US Virgin Islands) for the last 4 days and although it may not have the charm of the North Sound, or the hustle and bustle (If that is even possible here) of Charlotte Amalie we love it here.  When we arrived I jokingly told Kate that I had booked the Turtles for 5pm.  They arrived at 3:18. 

The next morning, equipped with our new DSLR camera, we walked the 1km to the Annaberg Ruin.  This is an old sugar cane plantation factory that also made rum.


termites nest - not welcome on our boat!!

a great place to hide from the rain... not.







We also spied some Mongoose which are similar to the ferret.  We were told hat they were introduced to control that rat problem (sound familiar?).  The only issue was that Mongoose are active during the day and rats are active during the night and so never come into contact with eachother.  Fortunately they have managed to find harmony with the local ecosystem, and are only a pest to the local tourist who was stupid enough to leave their backpack in a place where the mongoose can get at it.  They can, and will, open your backpack and eat your lunch!
 

I also discovered that even though we are in a National Park, you are allowed to catch the local crayfish, known here as lobster.  So with this gem of information, off I went in dinghy (still yet to be named) to the rocky point where I was sure there would be the odd prawn for the taking.  Instead to crayfish I stumbled on to what has probably been the most pretty snorkel yet.  On this snorkel I saw all the fish contained in the index of our Caribbean fish book, including some species that I had not seen recently, including the Spotted Drum and the Banded Butterflyfish.

While I was off snorkelling, Kate made us some bread that turned out exceptionally well.

We headed into Cruz Bay one morning to fetch some provision.  The guide book told us that it was the largest town on St John.  However, we found Cruz Bay fairly disappointing.  Although there were a few interesting art shops, there was only one badly stocked supermarket whose prices were significantly higher than other places we have been.  We got the bare necessities and headed back to Francis Bay.

The chef has also been pretty good to me. Hopefully this is not the dragon enticing her prey into her den  (prior to marriage) but rather a sign of things to come after we get married in March.
meet the chef
So I sit here and write this, rum in hand (only because it is cheaper than water, cough), listening to Bob Marley signing no woman no cry and I think that life aint half bad. 

BVI to USVI - disasters and adventures

 Like any disaster, titanic or plane crash, it happens only when a number of factors coincide.  Any one factor will not suffice; it is only the culmination of those factors that causes the disaster. 

For seasickness, the factors are (1) rough sea (2) wet (3) cold (4) hungry, and (5) uncomfortable.

On Monday morning, Gary and I decided to head down from North Sound on Virgin Gorda to West End Tortola to check out of the BVI, then on to Cruz Bay on St John to check into the US Virgin Islands.

Gary checked the weather forecast – 25-30 knots is all he tells me.  We are looking forward to a good sail and a bit of an adventure so neither of us is hesitant to head out.  As we up anchor and enter the channel we see that the wind waves have turned the sea into a choppy mess.  Factor 1 is ticked off the list.  It is also hard to miss the ominous black cloud that threatens to pass over us.  Before we have even really left the safe anchorage, the wind picks up and the black cloud unleashes its wrath.  The rain, as hard as ice, bites at my face, arms and legs, as I am only clothed in shorts and a singlet – check factor 2.  Gary yells expletives as if to say WHOAHOOOO! as we slam through the waves.  The heavy rain reduces our visibility to only the immediate surroundings.  The wind is relentless and unescapable.  I try to take cover under the spray hood, contorting myself as far into the shelter as possible.  Now I’m not only cold, but also extremely uncomfortable, tick factors 3 and 5.  An hour and a half or so passes, the rain, wind and waves have not let up.  It is at this point that I begin to regret the tiny breakfast I had that morning in an attempt to consider the “wedding body” that I am supposed to be striving for.  The final factor, hunger, is ticked off and I begin to feel sick. 

Despite feeling queasy, I am forced to concentrate as Gary deviates from our navigational plan.  In an attempt to avoid two gibes which would have needed all hands on deck, instead of heading down the unencumbered channel, Gary decides to cut through the small and treacherous Dog Islands, with submerged rocks hidden in the centre of each passage through.  I breath a sigh of relief as we pass through safely.  I start to concentrate on my “Yoga breathing”, which proves effective in quelling my sea sickness.  I have soon recovered sufficiently to take the helm, and the sun finally shows its face.

We reach West End by 2pm, a little later than we had anticipated.  We decide to get some cash out, in case we need to pay any fees.  The ATM won’t recognise our card.  We have had this before.  So we jump in a taxi and take the 15minute trip to Nanny Cay to use the next ATM.  When we finally get back to the boat, we eat a quick lunch and check out of the BVI.  The official is surprisingly pleasant, joking with us and barely reading the papers. 

It is now about 3.30 and we need to get to Cruz Bay to check into the US Virgin Islands before immigration closes at 6pm. We make good time and reach Cruz Bay in about an hour.  We head into the small bay, crowded with fishing vessels.  There is no space at the customs dock to tie up, nor any depth to anchor in the bay.  We head out and try to find a space within the moorings of the greater bay, no luck.  We head to the next bay, but find the bottom is completely coral and cannot be anchored in.  We try again to anchor amongst the moored vessels in the greater bay.  But after finally securing a space, we are approached by a dinghy telling us that we can’t stay there as a big catamaran who moors there is about to return.  We up anchor once more.  We FINALLY find a spot further down the coast and make the long trip into customs by dinghy.  It is now about 5.15pm. 

We try to tie our dinghy up by the customs dock, but are ushered off the restricted area.  We follow the instructions and park at the dinghy dock and walk through town to get back into the secured customs area.  At nearly 5.30pm we join the long line at customs (a ferry had just arrived), along with our wad of official boat paperwork.  We are last in line.  We are received by the exhausted customs officer who tells us that we are his last customer of the day.  We tell him our story, that the boat has just been purchased and we are yet to register her in NZ.  He seems less concerned about the boat, and more concerned that we don’t have a visa.  We completed the visa waiver application while in NZ.  He tells us that the visa waiver does not apply if you are entering on a private vessel.  After various discussions with other staff, and phone calls with officials the kind customs officer allows us entry into the US with a stern warning to get the correct visa.

Tired and delirious from our long day, we return to the boat, which has only been temporarily anchored in an exposed position.  As night closes in on us, we push on to find somewhere to anchor for the night.  The closest anchorage is full of boats.  We spend more time searching the field of moorings for a space, but alas find none.  We resort to anchoring at the very entrance of the bay.  A large, expensive looking catamaran one side and jagged rocks with teeth bared on the other.  We fall into bed and sleep.  Well to be honest neither of us really slept.  We both woke up to the sound of waves crashing, which might be relaxing when having a massage at the spa, but trust me is not relaxing when you have anchored your new boat mere metres away!  We took turns at rushing up on deck when we heard a strange sound, or just got the feeling that the anchor may be dragging.  Luckily, we were safely anchored and none of our fears eventuated. 

In the morning, both drunk from lack of sleep, we ventured on to Charlotte Amalie, our final destination, to go shopping. We spent a couple of days exploring Charlotte Amalie with its high end stores like Louis Vuitton and Coach, and the endless diamond and jewellery stores.  We passed a bar called “Hooters”.  We were both intrigued by the link to the boat “Hooter Patrol” that we had seen earlier.  The sign said “Come in and check out our merchandise”...and so we did.


It was not my finest hour when I asked the Hooters waitress to bring me her favourite drink...We had been discussing various types of smoothie, but instead she brought me an instantly intoxicating drink called, some-type-of-physical-activity on the beach.

Feeling slightly dazed, perhaps from the drink, perhaps from the levels of hydrogen peroxide in the air, we headed back to the boat.  



anchored in the bay

anchored in the bay
rain in paradise



entrance to Charlotte Amalie

Not Charlotte Amalie.. but St James bay

St James Bay looking the current gap


The chef at work

Typical boat food