Friday 11 October 2013

Blimey it's Bundaberg!

After finishing with customs and quarantine, we were finally in Australia officially.

We staggered down the marina pier into the office of Bundaberg Port Marina.  Australians are such a nice bunch.  The office manager greeted us with a big smile and lots of humour.  He let us stay on the quarantine pier overnight (they weren't expecting anyone), so that we could sit back and relax after our long sail.

As a celebration for arriving, we had breakfast at the cafe at the marina.  Eggs benedict for me, and a big breakfast for Gary - fabulous!  

Toodles was still packed to the brim with cans of tomatoes, beans and rice.  We decided to rent a car and donate all the extras to the Salvation Army.  I swear Toodles floated inches higher after we emptied her of cans.

What to do in Bundaberg with a rental car?  Go to the Bundaberg Rum Distillery of course!
Yes, we may have been to a fair few distilleries before, but we thought another one couldn't hurt.  This tour had to be the best we had been on.  We started in the museum, to see the history of Bundaberg Rum, including seeing the Bundaberg Rum Polar Bear.




The museum also had sniff samples of the rum at different stages.  I made myself dizzy sniffing a bit too much rum!


We were met in the video room, which showed all the ads for Bundaberg Rum, by our tour guide.  We were stripped of our camera and watches, and anything else that might cause a spark.  This was new to us.  Apparently the rum fumes are highly flammable!  That hadn't worried the Carribean rum distilleries.  Perhaps we were lucky not to have been blown sky high after taking pictures of the 160 proof rum in Grenada.

The tour was great.  We got a much better description of what was happening and what they are doing, as well as a few taste tests along the way.  

The final stop was the bar for a few more taste tests.  Gary was driving so I had to drink his free samples for him.  Suffice to say, I left Bundaberg Distillery feeling pretty good.


On our way back to the marina we spotted a Kangaroo (referred to just as a "Roo" by the locals).  We took a photo as proof and confirmation that yes, we were definitely in Australia.




Thursday 3 October 2013

Arrived in Australia at Last

In the early hours of the morning, after what seemed like a very long passage despite being only 5 days,  we arrived in Australia.  This passage was the first time that we needed our full wet weather gear for the entire passage.  It had been cold beyond reason, partly a result of us having become acclimatised to 30+ degrees, as well as it being an unseasonal cold snap.

I emerged from down below after hiding out from the 30kt winds and big waves, to see the lights marking the harbour at Bundaberg.  

As dawn began to break, we could see the flat coastline and smell the sugar cane.  That distinctive land smell was like heaven.  We hugged, I cried.  The realisation that we had made it over 13,000 miles from the Caribbean to Australia was overwhelming.  Both of us felt relieved that we had no more ocean passages ahead of us.

Gary told me that as he gazed out at the star filled sky during the last night, he asked himself "will I miss this?".  His answer was "yes, but not for a long while".




We had heard so many horror stories of Australian customs and quarantine, but our experience was fantastic.  We had sent our notice of intention to arrive in Australia by email while we were in New Caledonia.  When we arrived, we called quarantine (AQIS), who knew all about us and arrived in minutes.  They kindly called customs for us so we could sit back and relax.  The quarantine process was thorough, but no more difficult than all the other pacific islands.  Customs arrived on the boat shortly after and we filled out the paper work.  I had a few questions since we were leaving Toodles in Australia.  They answered my questions easily and went out of their way to help us out.

Within an hour we were all legal.


Our adventure hadn't ended just yet, we still had another 4 days sail down to Brisbane ahead of us.  But first a few days relaxing in Bundaberg.

Tuesday 3 September 2013

Recap: New Caledonia

We left Vuda Point Marina on Tuesday morning and had a great sail the whole way to New Caledonia.  We were concerned there might not be enough wind, only 10-15 kts, but Toodles went surprisingly fast and we got to New Caledonia in good time. 

Vuda Point Marina, Fiji
Vuda Point Marina, Fiji

The first we saw of New Caledonia was the mines that exposed the dark orange soil. 





We hear the best cruising in New Caledonia is the Ile des Pins and the Loyalty Islands.  Unfortunately, the only port of clearance in New Caledonia is Noumea, past all these great locations.  Wanting to do things by the book, we headed up the coast to Noumea a bit disappointed as we knew we were unlikely to come back to the good bits.


To clear customs in New Caledonia, you are required to tie up at the marina.  This was surprisingly easy with the help of marina staff who grabbed lines and called all the relevant authorities for us.  Customs was a breeze and the quarantine officer was helpful and easy to deal with.  The only mild irritation was that we had to trek half an hour uptown to get to the immigration office, but this gave us a good opportunity to check out the town.

The town of Noumea was not what we had expected.  The place felt less “French” than the other French islands we have visited so far.  It didn’t rival the sleepy seaside French village of Deshaies in Guadeloupe, where the only things missing were berets.  We found only one proper French bakery in Noumea, but it was hidden in an industrial area.  There are some good restaurants on the waterfront by the ferry building with good food but not offering the level of French cuisine that we have become accustomed to.  Noumea also had the first world problem of very bad internet.

We visited the Museum and did a lot of exploring on foot around the town.  After only a couple of days, we felt ready to move on.  













An okay weather window to Australia opened up by the end of the week, so we decided to say farewell to New Caledonia and make our last ocean passage.

Monday 2 September 2013

Arrived Bundaberg!

After a tiring night, came in through the long channel and up the river to the quarantine dock.  Tied up, waiting for customs and clearance.  Wonderful to be here - lovely to smell the land and the trees as we came up the river.  Plan to spend a couple of days here before slowly hearing down the coast in short hops to Brisbane - but first to find somewhere for a celebration lunch!

37 miles to go!

Nearing the top of Fraser Island, passed six ships in the last hour, wind and sea conditions not too bad, hopefully in the partial shelter of Fraser Island by 0100 NZ time tonight, and then into the Bundaberg river around 8am?  Should soon pick up lights ashore.
Looking forward to arriving!

Sunday 1 September 2013

Noumea - Bundaberg - Monday

position - 23degrees 58 minutes S; 155 degrees 04 minutes E
Sailing at 6.2 knots course 259 in 20 -25 knot SSE.
Main stowed and sailing under reefed jib alone ready for forecast strong winds (30-35 knots) and rough seas (3 metres plus 1.2 metre swells, probably more as the water shallows near the coast).  easier to stow the main while conditions still manageable, even though we are underpowered at present .
108 miles to go to waypoint rounding the sandbanks north of Fraser Island, hopefully sheltered water after that.  Should arrive at entrance to the bundaberg river early tomorrow morning.

Saturday 31 August 2013

Noumea - Bundaberg Sunday 0900

Position : 23 degrees 48.7 minutes S; 158 degrees 25.4 minutes E
Sailing at 7 knots course 270 in 10 knot wind from 070
290 miles to go!
Forecast is for the wind to slowly swing around to the south by tonight, and then build through Monday - 25-30 gusting 35 from SSE forecast by the time we see Fraser Island about 0300 Tuesday.

Friday 30 August 2013

Noumea - Bundaberg - Saturday 9am

position:  23 degrees 24.6 minutes S; 161 degrees 19.4 minutes E
Sailing at 5.5 knots course 260 in 15 knots from 120.  452 miles to go!
After so long in the tropics, feeling really cold as we head further south, especially at night.Both feel as if we are coming down with a cold.  Hopefully warmer in Bundaberg! Lighter winds forecast for tomorrow, then much stronger on Monday and Tuesday.

Thursday 29 August 2013

Noumea - Bundaberd Friday 0900

Position 22 degrees 48.9 minutes S; 164 degrees 03.1 minutes E
Sailing at 7.4 knots course 230
wind currently 15 knots from 120, but well reefed - it has been squally, rainy and miserable all night, seas uncomfortable and building..

Wednesday 28 August 2013

At sea - satphone report 1330 thursday

Have cleared out, and leaving Noumea for Bundaberg in Australia.
Course 260, sailing at 7.5 knots in SE 15.
735 miles to go to landfall at the top of Fraser Island, hope to arrive Tuesday.

Friday 23 August 2013

Fiji - New Caledonia - Saturday

Position - 22 degrees 14 minute S; 167 degrees 33 minutes E.
Sailing at 7 1/2 knots course 255 in 15-20 knot wind from 150
27 miles to the reef entrance!

Thursday 22 August 2013

fiji - New Caledonia, Friday

position:  21 degrees 25 minutes S; 170 degrees 12 minutes E.
sailing at 7 knots course 246 degrees, wind 10 knots from 140.
Good sailing, but cold!
180 miles to go!

Wednesday 21 August 2013

Fiji - New Caledonia thursday

Position 20 degrees 34 minutes S, 172 degrees 48 minutes E
Sailing at 7 knots in a 10 knot breeze from 150 degrees, cloudy.  Was calm for a while in the night and motored, good to be sailing again.  Forecast 10 knots S to SSE.

Tuesday 20 August 2013

Fiji - New Caledonia - Wednesday


Satphone report:
Position 19degrees 19 minutes S; 175 degrees 16 minutes E.
sailing at 6 knots, course 235.  Wind 10-15 knots from 080.
477 miles to reef entry New Cal!
At sea again!  We left Vuda point marina early tuesday and headed out through the reef into  a moderate breeze right on the nose, choppy seas and a rolling swell.  Wind has come around to the East with more comfortable seas, mostly overcast skies.  Forecast light winds tomorrow.

Monday 19 August 2013

Mamanuca Islands, Mana Island and Musket Cove

The Mananuca Islands are yet another bunch of beautiful, picturesque islands. They are really great to sail by, but few have an official anchorage.  

                                     

                                     

                                     

I had, however, noticed a small pencilled anchor on the chart Dad had lent us, just between Navadra and Vanua Levu.  Dad told me the anchorage looked beautiful, but the wind direction and swell weren't good when he was here last season.  

We decided to just have a look as we went past.  The wind direction was fine, and forecasts said it would get even better.  The same was said for swell.  

As we sailed in, the sun glistened off the sea lapping at the long white sand beach and shadows played on the dramatic headland.  It looked like paradise.  A small swell was rolling in, but it was gentle so we weren't concerned.  The temptress captured us, and we decided to stay the night.

As always, just as night fell, the swell got worse.  Then, it got worse and worse.  Glasses were smashing against each other, things were falling off shelves and we were being thrown around in our bunk.  Gary went to sleep on deck, to avoid the constant clattering and keep anchor watch, while I "slept" starfish across the bunk.  Suffice to say, neither of us actually slept that night.  At first light, we left without even a swim.





Desperate for some proper sleep, we headed to Mana Island, which has a good fringing reef and sheltered anchorage.  15 miles and 2 1/2 hour later, we were again in paradise, this time in completely flat, crystal clear water.  We wandered around Mana Island Resort and had lunch at "South Beach".  After seeing many of the resorts in Fiji, I would say this is one of the best.  

Mana Island Resort


Musket Cove was next on the list.  Known as a sailing mecca, Musket Cove lived up to the hype.  A big, sheltered bay to anchor in, moorings available as well as a marina, a store, and a small resort with a good restaurant and pool.  Shame we could only stay one night.

Dick's Place at Musket Cove

Dick's Place at Musket Cove

Musket Cove Anchorage

Musket Cove Anchorage
We are trying to keep the momentum going, so that we can make our mid-September due date in Australia.  After our whirlwind tour of Fiji and the Yasawas, it is onwards to New Caledonia Tomorrow!

Saturday 17 August 2013

Fiji: The Yasawa Islands

We were meant to spend a day at Lautoka, exploring the town and provisioning for our trip up the Yasawa Islands.  Unfortunately, the morning we woke up in Lautoka the wind had come up, blowing right into the anchorage, making it uncomfortable and unsafe.  After holding all night, the anchor suddenly dragged, taking us in the direction of other boats.  It was time to get out of there.

We attempted to find shelter behind Bekana Island, but after three attempts, the anchor just wouldn't hold.  We tried the small bay on the other side of the commercial wharf, but after four attempts, we just kept on dragging.  So off we went to Vuda Point, hoping to get a spot at the marina.  After several attempts on the radio, phone and email, we finally got hold of the marina, only to be told it was full.  Vuda Point has a large bay next to it, which was sheltered against the wind and shallow enough to anchor, although not an official anchorage.  In an attempt to hold, we put out 45 metres of our heavy 12.5mm chain in only 5 metres of water.  We dragged another eight times that afternoon before it finally held.  A whole day wasted.

The next morning we made a quick trip into the marina by dinghy to pick up the bare essentials at the marina store.  Then we were on our way!

The Yasawa Islands are notoriously badly charted.  None of the charts match up to each other, with some having imaginary rocks and others missing obvious ones.  Some of the time our GPS chart plotter tells us we are on land in the middle of an island, when we are clearly not.    We take our time, look out constantly and mark the reefs and rocks off as we pass them.





We aimed for the little anchorage between Waya and Wayasewa Islands on the eastern side.    We arrived about 2pm, and while the anchorage is sheltered in the northerly breeze, we didn't find anywhere that was shallow enough for us to anchor without hitting coral.  Perhaps we were a bit too hesitant given our previous days experience.

Anchorage between Wayasewa and Waya Islands Fiji
 We continued on to Nalauwaki Bay on the north of Waya Island.  The wind was meant to be swinging more westerly, so we crossed our fingers and hoped it would already be sheltered. It wasn't.  At 3.30pm we headed for Plan C, the anchorage between Drawaqa Island and Nanuya Balavu Island.  We arrived at 4.30pm and anchor in the wonderfully sheltered channel, right outside the Mantaray Resort.  The anchor set nicely and we headed in for a pizza on the beach.

Joy at our wonderful anchoring spot turned to misery in the middle of the night when the tide turned.  The current through the channel held us at odds to the waves and we rolled about all night and listened to the whack of the waves smashing the underside of the transom.  Not exactly wide eyed and bushy tailed, we headed off up the chain to Blue Lagoon the next morning.

Mantaray Resort
Channel between Drawaqa Island and Nanuya Balavu Island
from the south-eastern side (by Mantaray Resort)
 Our electronic charts told us there was no entrance to Blue Lagoon from the south-east, but our paper charts said there was.  We preferred the route taking us through a channel in the eastern reef just off Naviti and Yaqeta islands, then back through the reef using the Kubo Pass on our paper chart, right into Blue Lagoon. The first reef pass was a bit nail biting, with the channel not exactly meeting up with our electronic GPS and the water being so clear that visual estimates of depth were difficult.  We made it through seeing 7 metres depth at the shallowest part.  Entering Blue Lagoon over what our electronic chart plotter says is reef, was actually less daunting because the pass is quite obvious visually.  We dropped the anchor just off the Blue Lagoon Resort, thankful to be in a calm and sheltered anchorage. 

Village opposite the Blue Lagoon Resort


Toodles at Blue Lagoon


Blue Lagoon Resort



We spent a couple of days in the Lagoon, watching punters come and go from the resort by ferry and sea plane.   We wandered the beach, obeying the strict rules set out on the sign - No access to beach if a cruise ship is in, and only below high tide mark if a cruise ship isn't in.  We even spotted a Nemo (Clown) Fish in the coral.  Gary took every opportunity he could to go fishing in the dinghy, but thankfully caught nothing.

We headed back down the Yasawas to the western side of Mantaray Resort, to meet up with our friends on Helena May and attempt to swim with the Manta Rays.   After drinks aboard Helena May, we headed into the resort for dinner.  This time, we thought we would splash out and eat at the restaurant on the hill, rather than the bar on the beach.  The spread was amazing and we chatted away to the resort visitors who sat alongside us at the long tables.

The western anchorage, away from the current in the channel, proved a much quieter night.  The next morning, we headed out in the dinghy with Tim and Cathy from Henena May, to find the Manta Rays.  We spied a tourist boat from one of the resorts and tagged along with them and their professional Manta Ray spotter.  We swam with a Manta Ray, but also a hoard of tourists who kept on getting their white bottoms in every shot.  The water visibility wasn't great, so this video was the best we could do.


 We continue to head back down the Yasawa Islands, but first the Mamanuca Islands.