Tahiti - Pampered by the Parents in Papeete then all the way to Bora Bora

Just before the sun went down, we headed out of the Kauehi atoll oasis and back out to sea for our shortest sea passage yet – two nights and one day.   This passage was special for me because waiting at the dock on the other side would be my parents, who I hadn’t seen for nearly a year and a half.   Gary and I had visited Dad in Tahiti when he was cruising back from the Caribbean in 2008 on his boat Hanne Danske.  Having Mum and Dad on Toodles in Tahiti had a nice symmetry to it. 

When the sun rose on the second day, we were cruising along the Papeete coastline.   Without a cell-phone on board, our line of communication with my parents was by VHF, with Dad on his handheld.  Just in case we were in range, I called him on the radio every 15 minutes.  Calling “Hanne Danske” from Toodles’ radio was just surreal.  Only about a mile out, I hear Dad’s voice over the radio “Toodles, Toodles, Toodles, this is Hanne Danske” and I rattle off the correct radio etiquette of acknowledging the call and changing stations, which felt just plain weird when it was my Dad on the other station.

We entered Papeete harbour at 7.30 am with a pod of dolphins at the bow, but more importantly, with Mum and Dad waving from the dock.  Just before we backed into the town dock, I realised that I had completely forgotten to get the fenders out.  We fluffed around a bit and got ourselves sorted before Gary backed us into a tight spot, making it look effortless.  

Tired, rather salty, and to be honest, probably rather smelly, I jumped onto the dock to give Mum and Dad a hug.  After a quick tour of Toodles, we packed our bags and headed to the apartment Mum and Dad have rented for a few days.

It is hard to explain to anyone who hasn’t been on a boat for an extended period, or spent a long time camping perhaps, but those simple things you take for granted about land life are like little gems of luxury to us.  A hot, high pressure shower that you can stand under for minutes at a time – fabulous; A sprung bed with crisp, fresh white sheets – amazing; 24 hour air conditioning, reducing the 30 plus degree heat down to a chilly 24 – magical; Walking around a room that isn’t moving, sitting on puffy sofas, using a fridge that I don’t have to reach down into while standing on tippy toes – out of this world.  For the first time in a very long time, I felt clean, well rested and completely comfortable.  

After 5 days spent at the apartment, swimming in the pool, shopping with Mum, exploring the island and eating dinners under the stars from the food stalls on the waterfront, it is not an exaggeration to say they had to drag me kicking and screaming from the apartment back to the boat. 

We headed for Moorea just for an afternoon, having all explored the place when Dad was here in 2008.  We decide to do a night sail on to Huahine.  After countless nights at sea, Gary and I have decided this is the best time to be out there, with no burning sun, no need to cook meals, and the joy of being snuggled up with a blanket under the stars.  Unfortunately, the trip over to Huahine was rough and uncomfortable, broken up by heavy rain squalls that soaked us, and the blankets, through.  Suffice to say, it wasn’t the idyllic sail we had hoped to have with Mum and Dad.

We arrived in Huahine to a beautiful day, swam off the boat in the turquoise water by the reef and laughed at Gary’s attempts to windsurf with insufficient wind.  After only a night at Huahine, we crossed over to Tahaa, then on to Bora Bora the following day.  After so much sailing and short stops, I was extremely glad to arrive somewhere that we didn’t have to move from for a good few weeks.  More swimming, snorkelling and a dinner at the famous Bloody Mary’s restaurant, then it was time for Mum and Dad to leave.  I was absolutely gutted leaving them at the ferry building, but Dad had left a nice reminder of their stay with us – giving us both the cold he had been struggling with most of the trip.  Thanks Dad.

Moorea

Gary finally catching a breeze in Tahaa

Bloody Mary's