The San Blas Islands

The San Blas Islands (Kuna Yala) are made up of many groups of picture perfect tropical islands.  Gary thinks that this is where all tropical island postcard pictures are taken, and he might just be right. 

We begin our time in the San Blas at the Holandes Cays, and island hop every couple of days.   

BBQ Island (AKA Turtle Island), Holandes Cays

Kuna huts on Tiaup Island, Holandes Cays

Olosicuidup Island, Coco Bandero Cays

Wreck of a cargo ship off the Coco Bandero Cays

The San Blas Islands are home to the indigenous Kuna Indians who shun western culture and generally continue to live their traditional tribal lifestyle.  While they accept visitors, there are certain rules that must be followed.  You must not be ashore after dark and must never take a coconut, as every coconut in the San Blas has an owner.  Nudity is frowned upon, as is wearing only your bikini in the villages of inhabited islands.  

We are intrigued at the Kuna huts, made from cane and palm tree fronds.  We see a dug out canoe ("ulu") arrive at one of the islands late in the afternoon, weighed down to the gunnel with provisions from the mainland.   There are a few unusual items on the canoe - three brand new solar panels.  That night we notice the glow of lights in the huts, that we assume must be powered by solar panels as we see (and hear) no generators.

Banedup Island, Eastern Lemmon Cays

Nuinudup Island, Eastern Lemmon Cays

Banedup Island, Eastern Lemmon Cays

Uchutupu Pipigua, Chichime Cays

Uchutupu Pipigua, Chichime Cays

Uchutupu Dummat Island, Chichime Cays

Uchutupu Pipigua, Chichime Cays

Chichime Cays

We are approached most days by the Kuna men, selling fish, lobster and crabs.  We avoid the fish, which are generally pretty reef fish, but can't resist the lobster.  We manage to communicate with the Kuna with our little knowledge of Spanish, and lots of hand gestures.  While reasonably priced, at $5-$10US each, the lobsters are quite small, only the largest being of legal size in New Zealand.  The first time we buy a couple of lobster, the Kuna man does not have change, so gives us an extra lobster instead.  Feeling sorry for this baby lobster, we wait until the Kuna are out of sight, then set him free of the back of the boat.

The Kuna women also make frequent visits to our boat selling Mola.  The Mola are a square of textile that are completely handmade, having multiple layers of different coloured cloth with the patterns cut out to expose different layers then sewn together with intricate stitches.  Each island we go to, we are approached by a women with literally hundreds of Mola to choose from.  They are very persistent and will not take no for an answer.  We look through their Mola diligently, and buy one or two from each woman.  We are now fully stocked with 6 Mola.   

After each exchange of fish or Mola, whether we buy something or not, we are always asked (in Spanish) for sweets or chocolate.  After being asked many times, we come to recognise the words.  Unfortunately, we have none on board so have to then attempt to communicate this to them.  

Gary spends most of his days free diving on the reefs, trying to find his own lobster.  He finds many, but nothing big enough to make him feel comfortable taking.  Where the coral is particularly good, Gary comes back and picks me up to explore with him.  We are told there are many sharks around, but they are not aggressive.  Despite this "non aggressive" proviso, I still hold on to Gary's hand tight.  I keep a good look out over my shoulder but don't see any sharks.  I am relieved, but Gary is disappointed. 

After a quiet week recovering from our trip across the Caribbean sea, walking on white sand beaches, snorkelling and eating lobster, we head to Portobello.