Blimey it's Bundaberg!

After finishing with customs and quarantine, we were finally in Australia officially.

We staggered down the marina pier into the office of Bundaberg Port Marina.  Australians are such a nice bunch.  The office manager greeted us with a big smile and lots of humour.  He let us stay on the quarantine pier overnight (they weren't expecting anyone), so that we could sit back and relax after our long sail.

As a celebration for arriving, we had breakfast at the cafe at the marina.  Eggs benedict for me, and a big breakfast for Gary - fabulous!  

Toodles was still packed to the brim with cans of tomatoes, beans and rice.  We decided to rent a car and donate all the extras to the Salvation Army.  I swear Toodles floated inches higher after we emptied her of cans.

What to do in Bundaberg with a rental car?  Go to the Bundaberg Rum Distillery of course!

Yes, we may have been to a fair few distilleries before, but we thought another one couldn't hurt.  This tour had to be the best we had been on.  We started in the museum, to see the history of Bundaberg Rum, including seeing the Bundaberg Rum Polar Bear.

The museum also had sniff samples of the rum at different stages.  I made myself dizzy sniffing a bit too much rum!

We were met in the video room, which showed all the ads for Bundaberg Rum, by our tour guide.  We were stripped of our camera and watches, and anything else that might cause a spark.  This was new to us.  Apparently the rum fumes are highly flammable!  That hadn't worried the Carribean rum distilleries.  Perhaps we were lucky not to have been blown sky high after taking pictures of the 160 proof rum in Grenada.

The tour was great.  We got a much better description of what was happening and what they are doing, as well as a few taste tests along the way.  

The final stop was the bar for a few more taste tests.  Gary was driving so I had to drink his free samples for him.  Suffice to say, I left Bundaberg Distillery feeling pretty good.

On our way back to the marina we spotted a Kangaroo (referred to just as a "Roo" by the locals).  We took a photo as proof and confirmation that yes, we were definitely in Australia.

Arrived in Australia at Last

In the early hours of the morning, after what seemed like a very long passage despite being only 5 days,  we arrived in Australia.  This passage was the first time that we needed our full wet weather gear for the entire passage.  It had been cold beyond reason, partly a result of us having become acclimatised to 30+ degrees, as well as it being an unseasonal cold snap.

I emerged from down below after hiding out from the 30kt winds and big waves, to see the lights marking the harbour at Bundaberg.  

As dawn began to break, we could see the flat coastline and smell the sugar cane.  That distinctive land smell was like heaven.  We hugged, I cried.  The realisation that we had made it over 13,000 miles from the Caribbean to Australia was overwhelming.  Both of us felt relieved that we had no more ocean passages ahead of us.

Gary told me that as he gazed out at the star filled sky during the last night, he asked himself "will I miss this?".  His answer was "yes, but not for a long while".

We had heard so many horror stories of Australian customs and quarantine, but our experience was fantastic.  We had sent our notice of intention to arrive in Australia by email while we were in New Caledonia.  When we arrived, we called quarantine (AQIS), who knew all about us and arrived in minutes.  They kindly called customs for us so we could sit back and relax.  The quarantine process was thorough, but no more difficult than all the other pacific islands.  Customs arrived on the boat shortly after and we filled out the paper work.  I had a few questions since we were leaving Toodles in Australia.  They answered my questions easily and went out of their way to help us out.

Within an hour we were all legal.

Our adventure hadn't ended just yet, we still had another 4 days sail down to Brisbane ahead of us.  But first a few days relaxing in Bundaberg.

Recap: New Caledonia

We left Vuda Point Marina on Tuesday morning and had a great sail the whole way to New Caledonia.  We were concerned there might not be enough wind, only 10-15 kts, but Toodles went surprisingly fast and we got to New Caledonia in good time. 

Vuda Point Marina, Fiji

Vuda Point Marina, Fiji

The first we saw of New Caledonia was the mines that exposed the dark orange soil. 

We hear the best cruising in New Caledonia is the Ile des Pins and the Loyalty Islands.  Unfortunately, the only port of clearance in New Caledonia is Noumea, past all these great locations.  Wanting to do things by the book, we headed up the coast to Noumea a bit disappointed as we knew we were unlikely to come back to the good bits.

To clear customs in New Caledonia, you are required to tie up at the marina.  This was surprisingly easy with the help of marina staff who grabbed lines and called all the relevant authorities for us.  Customs was a breeze and the quarantine officer was helpful and easy to deal with.  The only mild irritation was that we had to trek half an hour uptown to get to the immigration office, but this gave us a good opportunity to check out the town.

The town of Noumea was not what we had expected.  The place felt less “French” than the other French islands we have visited so far.  It didn’t rival the sleepy seaside French village of Deshaies in Guadeloupe, where the only things missing were berets.  We found only one proper French bakery in Noumea, but it was hidden in an industrial area.  There are some good restaurants on the waterfront by the ferry building with good food but not offering the level of French cuisine that we have become accustomed to.  Noumea also had the first world problem of very bad internet.

We visited the Museum and did a lot of exploring on foot around the town.  After only a couple of days, we felt ready to move on.  

An okay weather window to Australia opened up by the end of the week, so we decided to say farewell to New Caledonia and make our last ocean passage.

Arrived Bundaberg!

After a tiring night, came in through the long channel and up the river to the quarantine dock.  Tied up, waiting for customs and clearance.  Wonderful to be here - lovely to smell the land and the trees as we came up the river.  Plan to spend a couple of days here before slowly hearing down the coast in short hops to Brisbane - but first to find somewhere for a celebration lunch!

37 miles to go!

Nearing the top of Fraser Island, passed six ships in the last hour, wind and sea conditions not too bad, hopefully in the partial shelter of Fraser Island by 0100 NZ time tonight, and then into the Bundaberg river around 8am?  Should soon pick up lights ashore.
Looking forward to arriving!

Noumea - Bundaberg - Monday

position - 23degrees 58 minutes S; 155 degrees 04 minutes E
Sailing at 6.2 knots course 259 in 20 -25 knot SSE.
Main stowed and sailing under reefed jib alone ready for forecast strong winds (30-35 knots) and rough seas (3 metres plus 1.2 metre swells, probably more as the water shallows near the coast).  easier to stow the main while conditions still manageable, even though we are underpowered at present .
108 miles to go to waypoint rounding the sandbanks north of Fraser Island, hopefully sheltered water after that.  Should arrive at entrance to the bundaberg river early tomorrow morning.

Noumea - Bundaberg Sunday 0900

Position : 23 degrees 48.7 minutes S; 158 degrees 25.4 minutes E
Sailing at 7 knots course 270 in 10 knot wind from 070
290 miles to go!
Forecast is for the wind to slowly swing around to the south by tonight, and then build through Monday - 25-30 gusting 35 from SSE forecast by the time we see Fraser Island about 0300 Tuesday.